03 July 2014
On this day I was able to get to yesterday's planned destination - Mississippi Palisades - State Park .
Palisades is the word used to describe a line of lofty, steep cliffs usually seen along a river, and Mississippi Palisades, 3 miles north of Savanna in Carroll County, handsomely lives up to its name. Caves are evident as are dangerous sink holes--limestone caves that go straight down.
Erosion has carved intriguing rock formations, including Indian Head, with its aquiline characteristics, and Twin Sisters, a pair of humanoid figures on the bluff tops. The U.S. Interior Department recognized the remarkable nature of this area in 1973 when it designated acreage here as a national landmark.Wooded ravines, whose brilliant hues splash the cliffs with color each autumn, dissect the unglaciated terrain. Ferns dot the deep ravines, while in the park’s northern region, white birch leaves of ripple in the wind. Each spring and summer the valleys and slopes are dappled with the blooms of trillium, bluebell, lobelia, shooting star and yellow ladies’ slipper.
Source: Illinois DNR
As you can see from the pointer on the left, Mississippi Palisades State Park is right along the Mississippi River.
The park is accessed from the Great River Road which follows the "Mighty Muddy".
On January 24th 2010 I drove a memorable section of the Great River Road. This took me through Bobo MS which was quite an interesting place.
But, before I go any further down memory lane let's get back to today's exploration.
I rolled into Savanna and started looking for directional signage to the park. I found/saw none but I finally made my way to the entrance. I could find no park office or any place where there was a park map with roads and trails.
The park road immediately started up a steep grade to a series of overlooks.
Click on the photos below for a larger image.
This is my idea of out house landscaping - an Ostrich Fern (Matteuccia struthiopteris) foundation planting!
A short stroll down a paved path gave me my first look at the Mighty Mississippi. The view immediately conjured up memories of the views Betsy and I had from Cadillac Mt trail in Acadia National Park.
Quite the view.
The river was approaching flood stage in places like Iowa and Missouri.
I wondered how many feet of these trees were underwater.
I stopped at 4 different overlooks. I saw only 3 other people. Had it not been for the nearly constant roar of Harleys with their blaring radios it would have been pretty quiet. I often wonder if they realize the negative impact the noise they make has on other people. Are they oblivious? Do they not care?
I then drove back off the bluff and found a trail head.
Ah - ha!! I finally found a trail map.
The trail was flanked by sometimes shoulder high Stinging nettle (Urtica dioica).
Those structures at the base of the leaf petioles are the "stingers". And, they do sting!
Anti-itch drugs, usually in the form of creams containing antihistaminics or hydrocortisone may provide relief from the symptoms of being stung by nettles.[33] But because of the combination of chemicals involved, other remedies may be required. Calamine lotion may be helpful. Many folk remedies exist for treating the itching, including Dandelion, horsetail (Equisetopsida spp.), leaf of dock (Rumex spp.), Greater Plantain, Jewelweed (Impatiens capensis and Impatiens pallida), the underside of a fern (the spores), mud, saliva, or baking soda, oil and onions, lemon juice, and topical use of milk of magnesia
Source: WikiPedia
Only minutes on the trail and I am in Fern Heaven! Here we see Interrupted, Lady, Maidenhair and Bulblet Bladder ferns.
The Maidenhair fern's (Adiantum pedatum) unusual frond shape makes it quite the standout.
Here is a look at the "bulbs" of the Bulblet Bladder fern Cystopteris bulbifera. Biologist refer to the bulbs as gemmae.
gemma
— n , pl -mae
a small asexual reproductive structure in liverworts, mosses, etc, that becomes detached from the parent and develops into a new individualSource: 2014 Dictionary.com
Another beauty - Silvery Glade Fern (Deparia acrostichoides)
This is the underside of the Silvery Glade fern frond. It shows the silvery colored and linear sori. The sori are covered by a protective structure called and indusium. Under that cover are the sporangia which contain the spores. Pretty cool!
BONUS! Now the limestone boulders are covered with not only Bulblet Bladder fern, but the Walking Fern as well.
This way cool fern has what are called "proliferous tips". When the frond tip finds the right spot it will develop a bud and roots and a new "Walker" is born. When this is repeated it appears the fern is walking on the boulder face.
A FernFreaks's version of a joke.
Q. Hey Mike, did you see and walking fern today?
A. Nope. Just the footprints.
There were a few Ostrich Fern (Matteuccia struthiopteris) scattered about as well.
Smooth cliffbrake (Pellaea glabella)? I think so, but I cannot be sure. This "unfern like" plant usually grows in the crevices of calcareous rocks.
Calcareous means mostly or partly composed of calcium carbonate, in other words, containing lime or being chalky.
Sentinel Point for which the trail is named rewards the hiker with a commanding view of the Mississippi River.
Most of what is seen here is the Upper Mississippi River National Wildlife Refuge. The refuge covers just over 240,000 acres and extends 261 river miles from north to south at the confluence of the Chippewa River in Wisconsin to near Rock Island, Illinois.
Sentinel Point is popular with rock climbers and rappellers. This fixed anchor is often used for a style of rock climbing called "top roping", something I used to enjoy in my younger days.
When I saw these leaves I thought of Betsy and instantly got a heart on.
In an open area along the ridge top there was a nice stand of May apple (Podophyllum peltatum). The blotches on the leaves are caused by May apple rust. If you want to learn more about this disease you should read the riveting paper "Taxonomy of mayapple rust: the genus Allodus resurrected" for all the details.
This is a as yet unripened "apple".
The ripened fruit is edible in little amounts, though when consumed in large amounts the fruit is poisonous. The rhizome, foliage and roots are also poisonous. Mayapple contains podophyllotoxin, which is highly toxic if consumed, but can be used as a topical medicine.
Source: WikiPedia
At the end of the Sentinel Trail I picked up the Prairie Trail which is a short loop near the trail head of the Pine trail.
There were several speecies of wild flowers in bloom including this lovely Monarda.
This is looking over this demonstration prairie from the observation platform. I am assuming the area was clear cut and the prairie created. Or, would there be a natural opening like this? I don't know.
Now it is time for a stroll on the Pine Trail.
This is called giving the Maidenhair the finger.
Another old friend - the Sensitive fern (Onoclea sensibilis).
The sterile and fertile fronds of Onoclea sensibilis are quite different from other ferns. The bright, yellow-green sterile fronds are deeply pinnatifid and are typically borne at intervals along a creeping rhizome. They grow to about 90 centimetres (35 in) long, with a long, smooth stipe.
The fertile fronds are much smaller, non-green, and have very narrow pinnae. The sori are clustered like beads or grapes on the upright fertile fronds, hence the common name Bead fern. The fiddleheads are a pale red color.
Source: WikiPedia
I saw a few plants of the Intermediate wood fern (Dryopteris intermedia) as well.
A closer look at the Intermediate wood fern (Dryopteris intermedia).
This was turning out to be quite the fern walk! Here is more Maidenhair and Lady fern. Lookin' good girls!
The Interrupted Ferns (Osmunda claytoniana) were big and luxuriant.
That's a lot of mushrooms!
Very strange. What caused the Juniper to split like this is beyond me. An interesting example of tree hugging.
I kept hiking until I found an unmarked intersection. I followed my nose and eventually ended up at the base of the bluffs on a park road near the Great River Road. I walked up the roadway and found myself back at the intersection where the Sentinel, Prairie and Pine trails met. I had made a nice big loop.
I then crossed over and made my way back down to the van. I had parked near the main pavilion and picnic area. The park staff was taking advantage of this rain free window and there was a frenzy of lawn mowing going on in preparation for the Independence Day weekend.
When I came through the town of Savanna on my way here I noticed a sign pointing to "Marina/Bike Trail". I had my bike and gear so I decided to check it out on the way back through.
This is the pedestrian/bike bridge which spans a busy rail intersection.
The bike trail is called "Great River Trail". Imagine that.
The Great River Trail is a breathtaking journey along 60 miles of the Mississippi River. The route is a mixture of paved rail-trail, small-town sidewalks, dedicated bike lanes on the street and a stretch of road shoulder along the Great River Road. The Great River Trail begins in Savanna and travels south through many small river towns with traditions still steeped in the quintessential culture of the Mississippi River.
Source: TrailLink.com
As seen from the high point of the Flack Bridge.
Nice bridge. I am sure there are many times when it is under water. Or, at least the approaches are.
Much of the adjacent trail area was under water.
As was some of the trail! This was my first experience peddling in foot deep (+) water. It was like peddling up hill, but more fun.
This guy was loaded down with groceries and on his way home.
I turned around at the Wildlife Refuge visitors center. This made a round-trip ride of about 18 miles.
The big picture. Over 500 refuges and 150 million acres of land.
Home, sweet home. The Canaan Valley National Wildlife Refuge was the 500th.
One of my favorite signs.
This was a surprise. It is Prickly Pear cactus (Opuntia humifusa). It was growing right at the edge of the trail.
Boy, what a gorgeous day and great ride. Now it was time to head back to Westhaven in Freeport. I was taking Jilly and Kenbob, my CouchSurfing hosts out to dinner and I was gittin' hungry.
Jilly and me.
Jilly and Kenbob.
We had a very nice dinner in the early evening sun. Afterwards they wanted me to meet my "unknown brother" a fella who they swore looked, acted and talked like me. Scary. As luck would have it he was not home.
Then it was a tour of Krape City Park. Very beautiful and very impressive. The city of Freeport has more than 800 acres of owned and leased park land. Not bad for a town of barely 30,000!
Then it was back home for a campfire. It was a cool, still evening and my last here at Jill and KB's.
Boo-hoo... Thank you Jilly and Kenbob!!!
'Till next time...